Day 3: Datil to somewhere east of Fence Lake. Despite a big breakfast in Datil and a big lunch 20 miles later in Pie Town, I never really felt good today. My pulse was about 15-20 beats lower than it normally would be. I still managed ride sixty miles, due in no small part to fences. There's no hotels, no towns, and no campground. Nothing to do but keep pedaling till the fence moves far enough from the road to provide a suitable camping spot.
Day 4: my high-dollar sleeping bag has let me down. Temps in the high 30s last night and I froze. Also, my ten year old inflatable pillow has developed a leak. This morning, enthusiasm is hard to find.
Fence Lake to Gallup.
I rode about 6 miles on a dirt road, then detoured south to Fence Lake for water. Ah, optimism. The only sign of life in town is the chief of the volunteer fire department. Mercifully, she provided the 3 liters of water I was missing.
From there it was 63 paved miles to Gallup, NM. Setting out I felt great and thought it might be an easy ride. Alas, the start was a slight downhill with a tailwind. The rest of the route included a lot of ups and downs. Despite trying to take it easy on the ups, I quickly ran out of steam. With frequent stops I made it 50 miles to a gas station. Ice cream and Gatorade got me moving enough to push the last ten miles to Gallup where I found a second wind knowing a crappy hotel room and a day off was waiting. It would be in the top 3: worst motel rooms ever.